Peter! I always loved your carbon fiber top plies. Have you found that it makes the boards more rigid? When I used carbon fiber before I didn’t notice a difference but I’m not sure if I was doing it correctly. I also had no idea you did all vertical plies. It shows how much time you have put in to deck making to not just listen to others advice blindly. Major props
I paid a friend to design and print a plastic mold for me and so far it presses decks like a champ! It can withstand lots of pressure from my vice, even when I use a hammer to get the handle to tighten just a bit more. The way he did it was really nice too, he even installed metal drill guides and alignment pins right into the mold. 3d printed molds are definitely the best way to get a good fingerboard shape without breaking the bank.
@mallory Carbon fiber makes my decks rock solid, they hardly have any flex… Maybe try thicker sheets, i always get cut offs between 0.25 and 0.3mm.
@skatemaster231 Use grease on all the parts of the vice where there is friction and a thin metal pipe to extend the lever if you want to ditch the hammer method
@Petrum In my opinion i have more strength in the board when i cross 2of 5 veeners. I tried many variations but this one was my favorite:)
That is the only way you should cross plys, just to be clear.
I never, ever, cross plies. The reason being is that it affects the concave. They usually comes out more mellow than they should. When i make a mold, i want the decks to have the exact same concave as i planned, and it only works having all the plies in the same direction. I also feel that doing that way, decks tend to get stronger.
Of course, everyone can make their decks as they wish, that’s just how i see.
So I finally got started on making my first deck, here’s how it came out
Don’t have a drill press yet so I did the mounting holes with a regular drill by hand… Otherwise I’m pretty stoked on it. Once the lacquer dries I’m setting it up. Thank you all for the help on this!
aye that’s looking pretty nice
I’m surprised no one asked about dying veneer yet.
Do it right and buy some actual wood dye like Transtint or Keda. I wasted 20 bucks on icing coloring and while the colors are super vibrant, it never dyes through completely for me. Sure the actual dyes might be expensive and detrimental to your health but it’s not worth the headache of sanding your decks only to see spots of dyed and undyed veneer.
This is true… wood dye is the best bet. I always used Rit Dye, and it penetrated super well… but I couldn’t leave it raw, because it would stain pockets and fingers and whatnot
Has anyone had experience with a hydraulic press? Looking to increase the strength/ pop of my decks. I’m assuming you would leave it in the press for 24 hours just as any other?
If I remember the general rule with hydraulics presses is that
- Start with low pressure during the initial glue drying times
- Let the board take the time to absorb the glue while it’s sitting in the mold (few hours)
- Crank up the pressure every half hour or so until you’re at crazy amounts of pressure ( Ex. Private Press decks were pressed at 17 tons max)
- 24 Hours in the mold For Best Popsicle boards + a few days for full glue curing
Also thin sheets of veneer + crazy amounts of pressure + a NFB mold + right pressing technique = SUPER DEFINED CRISPY WAFER THIN POPSICLE BOARDS
Thanks for this! Are you saying to wait a few days to sand and lacquer once the deck is taken out of the mold?
Pretty much, you want to make sure the glue settles completely in the wood.
Does anyone know how to get perfect results when using oil to finish the decks?
got some experience, what do you want to know excactly?
I have tried it but the results are aweful. i watched videos but that doesn’t help so if anyone has useful tips i would appreciate it!
That’s the first one i took out of the mold. I haven’t made decks in years, so i’m pretty happy with the results