Making decks


#40

I have tried it but the results are aweful. i watched videos but that doesn’t help so if anyone has useful tips i would appreciate it! :slight_smile:


#41

That’s the first one i took out of the mold. I haven’t made decks in years, so i’m pretty happy with the results


#42

Really nice plies ! Looking good.


#43

Apply oil with brush or fine cloth. Wait for 30 to 60 minutes. Take off the oil that didnt suck in with (clean) cloth. Do this again After about 12 hours. Maybe Even once more. Polish After another 24 hours . Let it dry for several days.
The more Natural the oil is & the Less solvent it contains, the better :slightly_smiling_face:


#44

Thank you very much :slight_smile: i will try it.


#45

Thanks ! To hear that from you is great :slight_smile:


#46

So I’ve been using gorilla wood glue for a while and it’s been hit or miss for me. Do you guys like that brand or should I look into better options?


#47

I use regular old Gorilla glue but really any wood glue will work and tests have shown plain yellow wood glue to be stronger than epoxy or polyurethane type glues… Titebond 2 was the standard in the olden days so if you’re unhappy with Gorilla look into that. Really the key thing is understanding how the glue cures and being flexible with it. For example if I use Titebond 2, I’m definitely leaving my board in the mold 24+ hours. If I use Gorilla, I tend to demold after 15+ hours.


#48

Thanks again for the help! I’ve been leaving the decks in 24+ hours with gorilla wood glue. I like it over other glues because of the fast drying time but I will definitely look into titebond2


#49

I’d argue that it depends on what you’re using the dyed veneer for. If you’re just using it as middle plies, it’s not necessary to splurge on actually dye. Food coloring works perfectly fine.


#50

You’re right and I think it also depends on the veneer you’re using to dye too. My problem is that I’ve had middle plys not dye all the way through when sanding leading to weird spots of dyed and undyed wood. I’ve also had sheets of wood dye through completely so I don’t know what’s up with that. It’s probably a combination of many thinks like veneer type, thickness, and mixture of the dye itself.


#51

Would someone share reliable veneer sources in Europe that don’t have 20+ euro for shipping ? I found one but from 10 sheets i only end up using 5, because the thickness in inconsistent. I tried to contact some veneer manufacturers, but they don’t want to work with small quantities. All help is apreciated


#52

In Europe its very hard to get veneer for a cheap price, i had the same problem. In the end i asked a carpenter and sometimes i get a bunch for free… :slight_smile:


#53

The price in not really the problem, but i find the shipping quite expensive. Looks like i’ll just have to order a bigger quantity and hope for a good quality of the veneer.


#54

I have started making my own 5-ply boards, using maple all the way through. I properly cross the grain and crank the mold in my vise really tight, but I can’t seem to get much pop from my boards. I use gorilla glue and cross 2 out of the 5 plies, alternating every other ply. Any ideas as to what’s happening?


#55

What mold are you using ? I once got a board from wooden mold that had the worst pop ever. Have you tried with other sheet of the veneer ? Leave the plys in the sun for a couple of days and try again


#56

Read the thread man, there’s some useful info up the top like not needing to cross your plies, ect


#57

Not crossing your plies is more a thought, than an „authorized“ method. Almost all the quality boards you will get, will have crossed plies.


#58

How long do you press them?


#59

Really? because all the best deck makers up there were saying they don’t cross plies, since they are well known deck makers and you’re nobody I think I will considered their methods “authorised” over anything you say. Ps. Go F yourself :kissing_heart: